We’re always on the hunt for the latest skincare ingredients to boost our routines and unlock a radiant complexion. It may be lesser-known compared to the likes of lactic acid and azelaic acid, but the benefits of alpha arbutin are not to be dismissed.
If you struggle with dullness, hyperpigmentation and uneven skin texture, this might be the ingredient your routine has been missing. To understand exactly what alpha arbutin is and how it works we chatted to Dr. Aiza Jamil, Dermatologist at SK Clinic, for her expert advice.
What is alpha arbutin? “Alpha arbutin is a naturally occurring compound that is often used in skincare products for its potential skin-brightening and pigmentation-reducing properties, explains Dr Jamil.
It is a type of hydroquinone derivative and is derived from the bearberry plant. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin which helps to reduce the appearance of pigmented spots and hyperpigmentation. It is a popular ingredient used in skin care products and generally safe for all skin types including sensitive skin.”
What are the benefits of alpha arbutin? If you are contemplating adding alpha arbutin into your skincare routine, its benefits might help you decide whether it is the right ingredient for you. Luckily, Dr. Jamil has broken it down for us into 5 key benefits:
Brightening and lightening of skin leading to even skin tone.
Reducing the appearance of age spots, freckles, and sunspots.
Addressing melasma and other forms of hyperpigmentation.
Minimising the appearance of acne scars.
Providing a safer alternative to hydroquinone for skin lightening.
How to use alpha arbutin You might be wondering, how do I actually use alpha arbutin? The most popular way to add the ingredient into your routine is in the form of a face serum.
Alpha arbutin products can be used in the morning and evening. As it is water based, it should be applied directly to clean, dry skin before any moisturisers are applied. Simply massage or gently tap into the skin till it is absorbed, advises Dr. Jamil.
Are there any possible side effects of alpha arbutin? Like many other powerful and effective skincare products, such as retinol serums, side effects can occur when using an alpha arbutin product. It is always best to proceed with caution when trying a new product and only ever use one new skincare product at a time, so it is easy to distinguish which ingredient has caused a reaction if one were to occur.
Dr. Jamil chats us through the side effects of alpha arbutin which can occasionally occur:
Skin Irritation: Alpha arbutin may cause mild skin irritation, redness, or itching of the skin.
Allergic Reactions: It can range from mild allergic reactions on the skin to severe reactions in rare cases leading to hives, swelling, or rash.
Dryness or Peeling: Alpha arbutin products can sometimes cause dryness or peeling, especially if used in high concentrations or combined with other potent ingredients like alpha hydroxy acids or retinoids.
Sun Sensitivity: Alpha arbutin may make your skin more sensitive to the sun. It is advisable to use sun protection daily to minimise the risk of hyperpigmentation and protect the skin from sun damage.
Temporary Darkening: In rare cases, some people might experience temporary darkening of the treated area, which is a paradoxical reaction to the lightening effect that alpha-arbutin is supposed to have. It is important to differentiate it from post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation which happens secondary to skin reaction and in that case dermatological advice should be taken.
Is alpha arbutin safe for sensitive skin? Sensitive skin may vary from person to person, so it is very variable how an individual reacts to a product, explains Dr. Jamil. Alpha arbutin may cause skin irritation and reaction so the following measures can be taken to minimise the side effects and potential risks.
Follow the dermatologist-approved advice from Dr. Jamil below, on how to avoid a reaction to alpha arbutin and instead ensure you are unlocking its benefits.
Always perform a patch test on skin by putting a small amount on a patch of skin and monitor it for any reactions.
Always use the product with low concentration of alpha arbutin if known to have sensitive skin.
Use sparingly and thinly on skin and avoid using it with other irritant skin products like retinoids and alpha hydroxy acids.
Use sun protection and moisturise the skin after to prevent any damage to the skin barrier.
Alpha arbutin vs. other dark spot-fading ingredients Besides from the very well-known radiance-boosting Vitamin C serum, the other key skin-brightening ingredient that has similarities to the benefits alpha arbutin is kojic acid.
Like alpha arbutin, kojic acid is also a naturally occurring product derived from certain fungi and has melanin-reducing abilities, explains Dr Jamil. It can be combined with alpha arbutin to enhance the effect of skin lightening and reduce pigmented marks and spots and uneven skin tone. They have been used in combination in certain skin care products for enhanced effect but caution should always be taken to avoid any adverse reaction to the skin.
SHOP: The best alpha arbutin serums 1. The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA Concentrated Serum 30ml
Best budget alpha arbutin serum
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This lightweight and fast-absorbing serum from skincare heroes The Ordinary combines alpha arbutin
... read morePros ConsProsAlso great for helping drynessAlcohol-free and silicon-freeVegan and cruelty-freeConsThe texture is a little stickyCan cause reactions for sensitive skin types2. The Inkey List Alpha Arbutin Serum 30ml
Best alpha arbutin serum for sensitive skin
Price:11.99www.lookfantastic.com
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We love The Inkey List for effective products at affordable prices, and their alpha arbutin serum
... read morePros ConsProsNon-irritating and great sensitive skinAddition of hyaluronic acid and squalane helps with hydration and smoothnessVegan and cruelty-freeConsTexture is a little watery, making application a little messier3. Naturium Alpha Arbutin Serum 2% £30ml
Best alpha arbutin serum for a lovely texture
Price:22www.spacenk.com
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Newly-launched in the UK, a skincare brand to have your radar is Naturium. They are committed to
... read morePros ConsProsAlso uses popular skincare ingredient niacinamide for extra effectivenessPump bottle makes for easier applicationVegan and cruelty-freeConsHigher price point